Here are the doors with the leather removed representing the state of the paintwork, there is rust and scratches and I don`t like it :-).
Removing the paint was not difficult, after so many years it was just peeling off very easy. In some places, where the paint was harder to remove I used the multitool from Dremel with diffrent sets of metal and copper brushes. I had to watch the film type selecting window in the doors to don`t damaged it.
After all paint was removed there was no way back. I used grey primer paint before applying the gloss enamel on top of it. I forgot to take pictures of the door with primer finish but later in this article you can find other parts with the primer applied.
There was a few attempts before I get the right thickness of the both coats. First time I aplied three layers of primer and three of black gloss paint and this was a mistake. The finish was to thick and I knew that this can cause a problem when the part have to assembled on the body. After cleaning all again I applied two thin layers of primer and two of black gloss enamel paint. This was the finish I was looking for.
After some research I found out that the original paint was baked in the oven, the problem was that I didn`t have the experience to try this and didn`t have the oven so instead I used high scratch resistant enamel paint and primer. This give me a nice hard finish, I didn`t paint the internal site of the doors as they are painted using special anti-reflective paint and they was in great condition.
Below some pictures after the job was done and after the new leather was applied.
And after leather was aplied.
And some bigger photo of finished part.
4. Removing bottom covers and film locking mechanism, bottom right and left corners of the camera.
On the bottom of the camera on both corners is the film locking mechanism assembled on top of the covers. Disassembling this is not a big problem, only trouble was to make some custom made tools to remove special screws holding the assembly - one for film locking mechanism and other for the covers. After the top screw was removed the spring and locking mechanism is free to be removed. The covers are hold by a ring type screws and the special tool is needed to be able to remove them. I believe pictures below shows more detail and no explanation is needed.
All parts was in good shape and just a proper cleaning was needed. Paint was removed from bottom covers. As the restoration process took me almost two months I was labeling all parts with detailed descriptions to help me assembled them in the wright order after all painting job was finished.
5. Bottom covers paint work.
This process was a bit more tricky than the back doors painting job. I found some informations in internet that the bronze is difficult to paint and a good idea is to prepare the surface properly before painting. I used metal sponge to scratch the surface so the paint particles have something to stick to. After that I clean the surface using Loctite cleaner.
Next problem I came across - how to hold parts while painting ? I get some funny but perfectly working idea - I found some old markers pens and glue them to the internal site of covers using super glue, that way I was abble to hold them in my hand while painting and after that I just keep them in the old glass to dry.
On the pictures below where all parts are together you can noticed that one is missing - this is the right corner part, the one with shutter button. I didn`t restore this one from a few reasons:
1. - The part was in perfect condition so there was no need for painting.
2. - I was afraid that I will be unable to paint again the 67 marker.
3. - I was unable to remove the shutter button and the shutter locking mechanism which was chrom and painting this part could cuse that will be difficult to perate it.
Paint removed and covers ready for painting.
Two coats of primer applied - old marker pens glued to the internal part of the covers. You can clearly see on the picture that the layers are really thin and only reason I used primer was that when I tried painting the parts without primer the paint was just running down without covering the part, in other words, there was nothing which allowed the paint to stick to the surface of bronze metal.
Simmilar steps are taken when removing left plastic cover, just to remember about the spring and pin which holds the prism. On the left site I found a bigger than usual screw, which is protruding through the cover. Becouse the screw is bigger I was sure that this one has a different purpose then holding the cover. It was covered by small copper circle shaped cap which after removing the old leather, sticks to the remaining glue on the bottom of that leather. First I was thinking to unscrew this one as well, but after all the smaller screws was removed the cover become loose and I was able removed it. I don`t exactly know what is that screw for, but I think that is some kind of regulation/calibration screw so I was happy that I didn`t tried to removed it.
The Mirror Lock-Up switch is a part of the cover and could be removed after for cleaning.
Don`t clean the remains of old light seals as they are a perfect indication and help in positioning the new ones and this have to be done just before replacing them.
After all plastic covers have been removed there is nothing on the way and I was able to remove the right bronze corner of the camera. It is hold by only three screws around it and on top of it by shutter timing dial with three tiny headless screws in it.
Only one small problem - after removing screws the shutter dial turns around his own axis loosing original position, the screws are tighten in the V shape cut out around potentiometer in exact orientation and there is no any sign and indication of where that position is. But there is a simple clue which helped me to position the dial again in the right place.
On the potentiometer and between the dial timing marks is the significant jump (gap) between 1/1000 and X position so after turning the potentiometer one way or another is easy to find that jump (gap) and align the dial in to corresponding gap on the timing marks.
And after all that steps the cover is free to go and ready for painting preparation.
Below some pictures after the cover was removed and just before painting.
7. Removing the Winding Lever for anodizing.
This part was the most difficult one. I was afraid that I can break something or lost some parts. The best way is to follow the service manual as there is lots of parts assembled together in the wright order. I was recording all my steps so after a long period of time with help of video I was able to put everything together again. I will try to explain best as possible the steps I took to remove the winding lever.
Below is the screenshot from the service manual representing the exploaded drawing af the Winding Lever mechanism. The top cover with the window is hold by tiny, REALLY TINY headless three screws in the same way as the shutter dial on the left corner cover. DON`T LOOSE THOSE SCREWS.
After that screw is removed there is just a few washers, so no explenation is needed and the best way is to follow the Service Manual. For cleaning purpuse I removed the cover as wel but I`m not going to show how to do this as this could be done using Service Manual.
8. Removing Bayonet Seat, Spring, Stopper and Coupler ring assy.
Acording to the Service Manual, Bayonet Assy is set precisly so I was taking small and slow steps when removing those parts. For adjustment, small shims are used so I had to be careful to not to mix them and keep them separated.
Screenshot from Service Manual representing Bayonet - Back Adjustment.
And after.
9. Anodising.
All parts below have been originally anodised but after so many yeras they was exposed and highly scratched and damaged. Working in aircraft industry I was lucky to have access to anodising department in my work. After short chat with my friends on anodising area and getting some advice I was told to not to remove or polish the scratched areas on the parts. This of course was judged by them and if the scratches are deep and big they have to be removed manually before anodising. I have to admit that I tried to removed old anodising using Dremel tool and the result was just devastating - part was completely damaged by me and I spend a few weeks to find replacement. Old anodising was removed very easy by my friends in anodising area. My mistake, but I new the risk when I started this project.
I was so excited seeing new parts that I forgot to take some pictures after and even before they have been anodised, but the final effect will be visible on the fully assembled camera on the end of this article.
10. Handle restoration.
I was hoping that the handle will be the easiest part of this project, but I was wrong. I had to make a decision - remove permanently the hot shoe and anodise the covers as originally or keep the hot shoe and paint the covers. The reason why I get across this problem was easy - the hot shoe on the handle is from steel and I was told that this cannot be done especially together with aluminium cover attached to it. Problem is that hot shoe is attached using short rivets and they, once removed cannot be attached again. So on the end I decide to paint the covers as they was badly damaged and scratched.
Before painting.
And after.
